All kidding aside, before you unstrap your board from your car surf rack, you need to understand that surviving big wave wipeouts is a little bit different than managing medium to small wave wipeouts.
3 thing you must remember to survive a big wave wipeout:
- Don’t panic
- Hold your breath
- Know where the channels are so you can swim or paddle out of the impact zone.
|wipeout view from below|
1. Don’t Panic
Panicking is a sudden sensation of fear. In surfing this is caused by the tumbling and churning of being held underwater by a wave. Being in a state of panic causes a person to go into a flight or fight mode which prevents one from thinking logically or reasonably. Remaining calm during a wipeout allows you to stay mentally prepared for the psychological battle that is a wipeout.
2. Hold Your Breath
This might seem a little too basic and obvious, but holding your breath is more a mental ability than a physical one.
|Reef holding his breath|
3. Know Where Channels Are So You Can Swim or Paddle Out of the Impact Zone.
Using channels will help you get out of the path of the wave energy. Big waves come with big energy. Knowing where the channels are and how to use them is critical to surviving big-wave surfing.
Remember surfing is not only a physical sport but a mental one as well. Staying calm is essential to not only a good performance but to surviving big-wave surfing.
Where was your most memorable wipeout?